Biodiversity, Stress and Food Safety

Natural Farming - Photo Keith Webber Jr

Biodiversity, Stress and Food safety

'Biodiversity' is the word that we use when we talk about the 'variety of living things'. This diversity is essential to our health, prosperity and well-being.

If we are to understand the complexity we must know its building blocks, we must understand its variety, its biodiversity. We must also understand how different species relate to each other both in their interaction as living organisms (e.g. the interaction of insects and flowering plants) and in their evolutionary histories.

The starting point of animal-welfare is the recognition that animals are sentient beings and should be treated in such a way that they do not suffer unnecessarily. It concerns the animals that are under human care {e.g. on the farm, during transport, or at the time of slaughter}.

All farm animals will experience some level of stress during their lives. Stress reduces the fitness of an animal, which can be expressed through failure to achieve production performance standards, or through disease and death. Stress in farm animals can also have detrimental effects on the quality of food products. However, although a common assumption of a potential effect of stress on food safety exists, little is actually known about how this interaction may occur.

Colonization of farm animals by enteric pathogens such as Escherichia coli O157:H7, Salmonella, and Campylobacter, and their subsequent dissemination into the human food chain are a major public health and economic concern for the food industries. Stress can have a significant deleterious effect on food safety through a variety of potential mechanisms. However, as the impact of stress is difficult to precisely determine, it is imperative that the issue receives more research attention in the interests of optimizing animal welfare and minimizing losses in product yield and quality, as well as to food safety risks to consumers.

While there is some evidence linking stress with pathogen carriage and shedding in farm animals, the mechanisms underlying this effect have not been fully elucidated. Understanding when pathogen loads on the farm are the highest or when animals are most susceptible to infection will help identifying times when intervention strategies for pathogen control may be most effective, and consequently, increase the safety of food of animal origin.

Reducing stress on animals has been demonstrated to improve productivity and prevent physiological changes.

All livestock are herd animals, and they are likely to become highly agitated and stressed when they are separated from their herd mates. Groups of animals that have body contact remain calmer. Reducing stress also should help improve weight gain, reproductive performance and animal health.

Inspiration -The Power Within – Your Words!

"Your words have power- choose them carefully!" - Jim Donovan

Throughout the day, during every waking hour, we are carrying on a running dialogue with ourselves. We are constantly thinking, or more accurately, talking to ourselves in every waking moment.

This quote from Slavoj Žižek that I used on my Facebook profile, is profoundly true. 

 “Words are never 'only words'; they matter because they define the contours of what we can do.

Hundreds of words per minute pass through our conscious minds as we go about our day. 

Unfortunately, for one reason or another, most people's self-talk is negative. This is probably due to the number of negative messages we heard as we were growing up and continue to hear today.

 These came from other, perhaps well intentioned people or individuals who  themselves living in a negative reality. Much of it is from a steady stream of negativity bombarding us from television, radio, newspapers and magazines.

Something to think about: Words don't offend people, people offend people. 

Back to the topic. One of my friends always talk about when I was young…. Obviously, he is saying I'm not young any longer. I must be old! A phrase that would have conveyed the same message but would have been more empowering would have been to say, "When I was younger . . ."

Without even realizing it, you're programming your mind with disempowering, less than ideal, messages. Keep in mind that your subconscious believes everything that you tell it.

Let’s think about the phrases that we use regularly to describe ourselves or how you feel and make sure that you are sending a positive message to your subconscious mind. Avoid any phrase that is negative or disempowering.

As a matter of fact, by amplifying positive words like saying great or terrific instead of just "good or fine," and minimizing negative ones, you can actually improve the way you feel. When asked how are you? Respond with "Better than great." I tried that a couple of times when answering the phone and the person on the other side always respond with something positive. It’s like spreading joy!!

The way you use your words is important as expressed by this quote:  “Our expression and our words never coincide, which is why the animals don't understand us”. -Malcolm De Chazal, writer and painter (1902-1981).

On a different note I read this insert from Hazel Palache, Entrepreneurs Results Coach: “Business today is not conducted the way it was years ago, in fact not even one year ago. If you are not constantly learning, changing and allowing yourself to use conscious business strategies and conscious business marketing any kind of challenges you may have will not readily change because your mind-set is still the same”.

Spirituality is synonymous with meaning. Meaning is created from growing and giving. When you can come from a place of giving in business it will bring so much more in the way of wealth and success! 

Nutritional related sheep and goat diseases

The metabolic related diseases mostly occur during certain stages of pregnancy or with lactation, which help to differentiate them from other nutritional deficiencies.

 It is important to follow preventive management practices to minimize losses from potentially costly diseases.

Sheep and goats are exposed to diseases, but fewer would die if farmers recognized the problem, made the correct diagnosis, and treated them in the most effective manner. 

To make the correct diagnosis is very difficult as it requires experience. Consulting with a veterinarian can be most helpful. The following comments are intended to help diagnose, treat, and prevent some of the more prevalent nutritional health problems in sheep.

Pregnancy Disease

 Pregnancy disease is an upset or interference in the carbohydrate metabolism cycle and is not related in any way to the amount of exercise the ewe gets. In converting fatty acids and particularly body fat to glucose, ketones accumulate in the bloodstream and blood glucose levels decline. The ketones are very toxic to the ewe, resulting in death within two to five days.

Pregnancy disease occurs only among ewes carrying multiple fetuses and usually only during the last four to five weeks of gestation. The ewe stops eating, which reduces her source of carbohydrate. She separates from the flock, often wanders around aimlessly, and may press her head against the barn or feed bunk.

Unless a ewe is treated very soon after the first signs are noticed, little can be done. Separate her from the flock, drench her with 300 ml propylene glycol twice a day until she eats, and offer her grain and hay. Drenching with glucose, honey, or molasses or injecting 40-50 cc of 5-10 percent glucose under the skin can also be used with reasonable success. If the ewe is not treated on the first day, however, the prognosis is poor.

 

To prevent pregnancy disease, keep ewes gaining weight during the last four weeks of gestation. (Photo right)

Increase the energy intake by feeding under poor veld conditions, 250-500 g grain per ewe daily. Fat ewes may be more susceptible, because they have difficulty increasing in weight, have limited feed capacity in relation to their size, and have an abundant amount of fat to convert to energy.

Enterotoxemia (Overeating Disease)

 Enterotoxemia can kill sheep and goats of all ages but usually kills only those that consume high levels of carbohydrates. Feedlot mortality for vaccinated lambs is 0.5 %; for unvaccinated lambs it is 5 to 10%. 

Vaccination is the cornerstone to prevention of the disease.

Clostridium perfringens type D, one type of bacteria that causes Enterotoxemia, is most prevalent in feedlot or in creep-fed lambs. Symptoms are sudden death, occasional pushing, and staggering, and apparent blindness. For an outbreak, vaccinate with type D toxoid on day 1 and again 12 to 14 days later, deworm, and reduce grain until the vaccine takes effect.

C. perfringens type C causes a type of Enterotoxemia that usually is accompanied by bloody scours. Mortality may be high. It usually occurs among fast gaining lambs during the first three weeks. Ewes vaccinated three to four weeks before lambing, provide antibody protection in their milk. Normally, vaccine won’t “take” on young (3 to 10 days) lambs that are nursing.

Prevention of Enterotoxemia is far more likely to be successful than trying to treat the disease. Most commonly , the change in diet that triggers the diseases an increase in the amount of grain! Protein supplement and/or grass that the sheep or goat is ingesting.

Always make feed changes slowly.

Acidosis 

Overfeeding of highly fermentable carbohydrate diets may cause acidosis. The high grain intake lowers the rumen pH from about 6.5 + to below 5.5, at which point lactic acid production increases and causes acidosis. Ewes fattening on grain, lambs on protein-supplemented carbohydrates, rams being fed for show or any feedlot animals on a high starch diet are at risk. Affected animals discontinue eating and showing signs of severe stomach pain. Affected animals sometimes are very lame and prefer to lie down or walk on their carpi.

This is because, especially the front feet are hot and painful in the acute stage of acidosis. These symptoms are named laminitis and may lead to permanent hoof deformities. Affected animals are staggery initially and have bloated, distended rumens. Some may have acute, watery diarrhoea. Later they may become recumbent, cold and comatose with sunken eyes indicative of dehydration.

Animals experiencing acute acidosis should be treated immediately. Purging with mineral oil or a bicarbonate drench is effective. If an animal has symptoms of brain disorder an injection of thiamine (Vit. B1) should be administered. To prevent acidosis the following management tips should be followed:

·         Feed complete-mixed diets. Don’t feed

 grain and hay separately, if possible.

·         Minimise sorting of diet ingredients by the use

 of the same particle size for all feedstuffs.

·         Feed slowly fermenting grains (maize;

 grain sorghum) with rapidly fermented 

grains (barley; wheat; steam-flaked maize).

 Limit wheat to a maximum of 20 % of the diet

 if not accustomed to feeding wheat.

·         Gradually adapt animals to high-grain 

finishing diets in 21 to 28 days using three or

 four step-up diets. Suggested step-up diets may contain 45, 35, 25 and 15 % roughage.

·         Feed at least 15 to 20 % roughage (90% dry).  Roughage is similar to insurance.  The more roughage fed, the less likely acidosis will be a problem.  When acidosis is not a problem, feed efficiency and cost per gain increase as roughage level increases.

·         Make sure feed intake is consistent (not increasing or decreasing) before switching animals to the next diet.

·         Feed bunks should contain always a sprinkle of feed.  Never allow the animals to be without feed for more than 30 minutes.

·         Feed animals, as close as possible, at the same time each day.

·         Feed two or more times a day if possible.

·         Use an ionophore to increase feed efficiency and reduce variation in feed consumption.  (Ionophores are feed additives used in sheep  and cattle diets to increase feed efficiency and body weight gain).

·         Balance feedlot diets for 0.5 to 0.7 % calcium.

·         Keep daily records of dry matter feed intake.

·         Keep all water containers clean and fresh

·         Prevent urinary calculi in feedlot lambs by feeding ammonium chloride and/or ammonium sulphate at 1.0 % in the complete diet.

Feedlot Rectal Prolapse

Feedlot rectal prolapse occurs in 0 to 10 % of sheep.  This condition is caused by high grain diets, high feed intake, overweight, coughing, or a short dock.  There is no particularly effective cure.  Procedures usually include suturing the rectum partially shut or inserting a plastic tube or short piece of hose and clamping off the protruding position of the rectum with an elastrator ring.

Urinary Calculi

Urinary calculi occur in feedlot wether lambs and rams on high grain diets and in creep-fed wether

lambs.  Mortality is 80-90 % of those affected.  The usual cause is an improper calcium: phosphorus ratio.  High grain diets result in a Ca:P ratio of 1:2 or 1:3.  The ratio of Ca:P should be 1.5:1 or 2:1 thus, you must add limestone not dicalcium phosphate to fattening lamb diets. Another effective preventive measure is the addition of 0.75 to 1 % ammonium chloride to the grain diets.

Lamb Starvation

Lamb starvation, the number one killer of lambs, often associated with lack of shepherding.  Contributing causes are: 

·         The lamb doesn’t get started (gets no colostrum). Seventy-five percent of lambs that don’t get colostrum die for one reason or another.

·         The ewe won’t claim the lamb.

·         Mastitis.

·         The teat is too big or is too near the ground and the lamb doesn’t find it.

·         

Sore mouth.

·         The ewe can’t feed two lambs (mastitis, too little feed, etc.).

·         Joint injury or illness.

·         Pneumonia, which often is associated with lambs that received no colostrum and thereby lack immune bodies.

·         Difficult parturition.

·         A “genetic will to die”.  Actually, the majority of lambs die for no apparent reason.  A genetically caused lack of vitality may well be the cause.

Fire Safety

Once again we head into our Winter season in South Africa and with the prevailing weather conditions, we have experienced in the past few years, we can expect the dry, windy fire conditions to prevail.

Wildfires are a regular occurrence in South Africa. Every year during the fire season the news contains stories of wildfires sweeping through the country.

The impacts of wildfires are many:

• Wildfires destroy croplands, grazing, forests and homes.  This leads to great financial losses, especially for people who do not have insurance.
• Wildfires cause hardship. This can vary from the death and the displacement of people to the loss of personal possessions that cannot be replaced and the loss of jobs.
• Although fires are a necessary part of the natural cycle of life, if they are uncontrolled or occur too frequently they damage biological diversity.
• Wildfires lead to the faster run-off of water.  This increases the intensity of floods and also causes soil erosion.
• Wildfires cause air pollution.

The natural state of the countries vegetation as well as seasonal winds can easily spark raging fires and it is essential to prepare adequately for these occurrences.

Game Lodges, Land users and farmers are advised to:

• Ensure fire-fighting equipment is easily accessible and in working condition;

• Test the fire equipment and ensure water tanks are full.

• Be aware of and participate in their local Fire Protection Association activities and plans;

• Control and restrict open fires;

• Carry out regular drills to ensure staff is fully competent in the handling of equipment.

• Report fires immediately to local Fire Departments, Fire Protection Associations,

Municipalities and the South African Police Services.

Fire Breaks

When using fire to create firebreaks it is important to plan correctly. A firebreak is an area that will contain a fire within its boundaries. A plowed or disked strip, reaching down to mineral soil, is the most common method of establishing a firebreak. Sometimes, a mowed path, or a walking trail, can be used as a fire break. If you are intending to burn fire breaks, these by legislation must be carried out before mid winter. However remember it is always safer to cut or plow fire breaks where possible. The following can be of assistance if you intend burning firebreaks.

PREPARING FIREBREAKS

Purpose of firebreaks

• Anyone with experience of veldfires knows that a firebreak cannot stop every veldfire.

• There will inevitably be a time when conditions are so severe that a fire will cross a

break, by spotting or otherwise.

• However, firebreaks are useful:

• in stopping many fires

• in providing a line from which to combat veldfires by counterfiring or other measures

• for protection of property generally

The requirement to prepare firebreaks

• Landowners are required to prepare firebreaks on their side of the boundary where there

is a reasonable risk of veldfire.

• How do we know what a reasonable risk is?

• The courts use the “reasonable person test”:

• if a reasonable person in the position of the landowner would foresee that by not

preparing a firebreak, a veldfire could start or spread across his or her land,

causing harm to someone else,

• and therefore would prepare one,

• then the landowner should also prepare one.

HOW DOES THE LAW DEAL WITH WILDFIRES?

• In order to limit the damage caused by fire, the law sets out a number of prevention measures that people must adopt to avoid a wildfire.  The main aspects of these measures include the following:
• The law provides for the establishment of Fire Protection 
• Associations;
• The law provides for the establishment of a system of rating and warning people of the risk of wildfires.
• The law sets out the duties that people have to suppress a wildfire once it is already burning (see below).
• The law provides for fines or imprisonment of people who do not adequately prevent or suppress wildfires.
• The law also provides for people to pay for the damages that result from a wildfire if they have not taken adequate steps to prevent or suppress a wildfire.

WHAT ARE THE LEGAL DUTIES REGARDING WILDFIRE PREVENTION

• You may not start a wild fire.
• You may only start a fire, including cooking or braai fire, in a designated area.
• Every landowner must have equipment available to fight wildfires.
• Every landowner must have personnel available to fight wildfires.
• Every landowner must have a person on their property who keeps a lookout for fires.
• Every landowner must establish a system of fire breaks.
• A landowner may not burn fire breaks or carry out controlled burns when the Fire Danger Rating is high.
• Land users must manage the fuel load on land under their control.  They must remove invasive alien vegetation from the land.

WHAT CAN YOU DO?                                                       

• Practice integrated fire management.
• Look after your own land by removing hazardous invasive alien plants.
• Establish fire breaks and ensure that you have sufficient equipment and trained personnel available during fire danger weather
• Co-operate with neighbours in your fire prevention and suppression efforts.
• Prepare a plan of action to address the following:
• Prevention;
• The location of fire breaks;
• Controlled burning pattern
• suppression
• If a FPA exists, become a member.

If no FPA exists, approach your district municipality or farmers union to assist with establishing an FPA.

• Through the FPA negotiate insurance rebates and rates rebates.

Our Wonderful World

For all nature lovers to enjoy - the photography is magnificent! Although it was done last year I just discovered it.
See the link on the right side under Interesting Links: Our Wonderful World. Or view this on my Facebook Profile. Elize Pretorius.   Thank you  for sharing this Kate Webster.

Serendipitously, I've viewed it and will do so often as a reminder.  All that beauty is addictive. Timelessly beautiful.  Our Wonderful World!
Things that matter in life:
 *How much you live.
* How much you love, and                                                                      

 * How much you make a difference.
Thank you to RDeux DDeux‎Les Brusseleirs
 for making a difference!

Accelerated Lambing Systems

Accelerated Lambing Systems

Accelerated lambing is when ewes lamb more frequently than once a year. The purpose of accelerated lambing systems is to reduce fixed costs, produce a more uniform supply of lamb throughout the year, and increase profitability. There are several accelerated lambing systems.

Twice a year lambing

The most intensive form of accelerated lambing is twice a year lambing whereby a ewe would produce two lamb crops per year. Twice a year lambing has the potential to maximize lamb production, but may not be practical under most commercial situations.

Opportunistic Lambing

Opportunistic lambing is when rams are kept with the flock on a continuous basis. With the right kind of ewes, this will result in a lambing interval of less than 12 months. The problem with opportunistic lambing is you don't know when lambs are due, so the timing of vaccinations, deworming, and supplemental feeding are more difficult.

Three lamb crops in two years

The most common system of accelerated lambing is three lamb crops in two years, resulting in an average lambing interval of 8 months or 1.5 lambings per ewe per year. The 3/2 system is usually characterized by a fixed mating and lambing schedule, (pas aan by jou eie sisteem) such as May mating/October lambing, January mating/June lambing, and September mating/February lambing (or slight variations). Up to a 40 percent increase in production has been achieved with this type of accelerated lambing system.

If a ewe misses a breeding, she can still lamb three times in two years.

The STAR system is a natural system that does not use hormones or light control to achieve out-of-season breeding. It involves selecting sheep that breed during any season.

The economics of accelerated lambing must be carefully examined. The increased income from the sale of lambs needs to compensate for the added costs and labor inputs. In addition, accelerated lambing requires a much higher level of management.

Awesome Sheepdogs! ~ Amass Farming Tips & Info

Awesome Sheepdogs! ~ Amass Farming Tips & Info

Links:
http://www.worldsheepdogtrials.org/Sheepdog Trials 2014

http://www.worldsheepdogtrials.org/trials/2014/09/03/world-sheep-dog-trials-03-06-september-2014/2014 Sheepdog Trials and sheepdogs working

 http://www.sasda.za.net/

Ethical Standards: Thank you Kate Webster for sharing my passion and your comment about our ethical responsibility. 

Border Collie: http://www.bordercollie.org/basics/living.html.

Jack from the farm Rookwood in the Eastern Cape, South Africa.  Photo Kate Webster

Awesome Sheepdogs!

South Africa and Spain will be competing for the first time in the 2014 World Sheepdog Trials. Handlers from 24 countries will be competing with 240 dogs at the 2014 World Sheepdog Trials, to be held at Fearn Farm near Tain, Scottish Highlands, on 3rd - 6th September. The trials will be held over 4 days to found the winner crowned as the World Sheep Dog Champion 2014.

Links: 

1.      http://www.worldsheepdogtrials.org/Sheepdog Trials 2014

2.      http://www.worldsheepdogtrials.org/trials/2014/09/03/world-sheep-dog-trials-03-06-september-2014/2014 Sheepdog Trials and sheepdogs working

3.      http://www.sasda.za.net/

South Africa has been awarded a fifth place to compete in the World Trials. The team to represent South Africa in the 2014 World Trials is as follows:

1.      Faansie Basson  - with sheepdog Jill.

2.      Faansie Basson  -  with Don. 

3.      Henry van der Merwe with Moss.

4.      Andrew Philip with Flint

5.      Ragni Pretorius with Jay.     

Reserve Elsie Jammy with Becca. 

Note from EP (Elize Pretorius):

 I’m in awe and love the clever Border Collie Sheepdog. I was privileged to watch them working on various farms and proudly took these photos.

Intelligent  Sheepdog worker

Reading the moves

  * Andrew Philip one of South Africa’s expert sheepdog breeders and trainers will also compete with Flint in the World Sheepdog Trials. He and his wife Pippa competed in the SA trials held in March this year. 

The Working Sheepdog: Can you do without one in this day and age

During the ‘60’s, 70’s and ‘80’s, just about every town in South Africa had a local show. It was the shop window for many products and organizations with the latest motorcars, tractors, and implements, new breeds of sheep, cattle and horses. There were household items, new gadgets, the latest clothes and many other things.

These shows were also the shop window for the working sheepdog. Every show had a demonstration done by one of the top handlers of the day. Chipper and Con Kingwill from the Karoo, Jeff Currie and Bennie Strydom from the Eastern Cape, Billy Colborne from the Midlands, Ron Philip from the Western Cape and many others. All these handlers were National champions at some stage and all became household names. The demand for working sheepdogs grew and through SASDA (The South African Sheepdog Association) you knew you were getting a fully registered working sheepdog.

As the years passed, the mass media became more accessible and the local shows faded away.

The mass media changed the way things were presented to the public and it was and still is the best way to sell your goods, but it comes at a cost. The shows, on the other hand, use to invite the handler and his dogs as an attraction, actually paying one for the demonstration. It was a wonderful way to show the country what these dogs can do. Although the local shows do not exist anymore, the promotion of the working sheepdog has never stopped. It has just become more of a challenge to get the message, about these incredible working dogs, out to the stockmen and women of the country.

History of SASDA

Established in 1961, the SA Sheepdog Association became the national headquarters for the registered working sheepdog. The main breeds we have had over are the years are the Border Collie and the Australian Kelpie. Many articles could be written on both these breeds and because they are so different, it would be wise for a prospective buyer to find out which breed would suit their needs.

                                                                 Benefits of working sheepdog on stock farms

Two diligent sheepdogs realizing the lambs are slower!! 

I would like to reiterate the benefits of have a working dog on a stock farm, regardless of the breed.

To start at the very beginning, it is important to find a good working line of dogs. There are a few ways of going about this. First and foremost, there is SASDA (SA Sheepdog Assoc), which has its own registration scheme of purebred working dogs. One can contact them for the names of registered breeders. The second option is to find someone who has purebred working dogs, but which might not be registered.

The best way to choose a pup is to find a dog that works well. Let’s call him ‘Don’. Don does not have to be a champion. As long as he works in a way that will suit your needs. Now find out who Don’s parents are and book a pup from the next litter. If you are not so lucky in following this scenario, the next best option is find a breeder, then to go and see if the parents of the puppy you would like to buy are both good workers. How well they work usually depends more on the handler than the dog, but if the dog shows interest in the stock and herds them to some degree you have a good chance of getting a working dog out of them. Having said all this, you always have a better chance of getting a good working dog from SASDA registered parents as they have been proven to work.  

Once you have purchased the pup, the most difficult, yet without doubt the most critical time of the working dogs life begins - the raising of the pup.

You may ask, why this is so important?

I’ll try to explain it briefly.

As a wool sheep farmer, if you go out and buy a well bred ewe and you neglect to dose, feed, vaccinate and keep it free of external parasites etc, the chances are you will not have a good breeding animal no matter how well it was bred. It takes effort to get a good product and the reason you are willing to go to that effort is for the reward you will get from that ewe at the end of the day. Make a few sums to see it from a financial point of view.

Back to your pup.

The same principles and more, apply regarding the well being of your newly purchased pup. You have not purchased a short-term investment and most importantly it is not a commodity. You have purchased a worker and hopefully a friend that should be around for the next 10 to 15 years. On the financial side of things the question should be asked whether the cost of this pup is worth the expense.

Let’s look at the sum objectively:

Once your dog is trained, it should save you sending three or four extra staff members out with your shepherd every time he has to work sheep. In fact, your shepherd and his dog can run 2000 ewes with ease. You would need at least two people to handle 2000 ewes on a daily basis and then you would have to get others in when dosing, shearing and every time you move a flock not to mention moving ewes and their lambs! You make that sum to cover a year and then multiply it by ten. We are talking tens of thousands of Rands over a 10 year period. Now you can start realizing the value of you pup, if it becomes a good working dog.

To give the pup the best chance of becoming a good working dog, it must be brought up properly. In the rest of this article, I am going to concentrate on how to best do this, because the first six months of a pups life, are probably the most important.

Here are the basics for giving your pup the best chance of becoming a good working dog.

1.       Before you buy the pup, build a simple but secure and comfortable kennel area, where the pup cannot play with other dogs or puppies through the fence. Should this occur your pup will pick up bad habits and become disconnected from you. It must not be able to see or be able to get into contact with fowls, “hansies,” sheep, rams, calves etc, or your other dog/dogs. Because your pup is a predator, it will more than likely start worrying or damaging any stock it can get hold of. It must always be supervised. If it can see stock but not get to it, it will either rush up and down the fence, which leads it to start barking or it will lie and stare at the stock for hours, making it a fixed eye dog that will not want to ‘chase’/herd the stock once it is introduced to them. (A 3x2x2 metres area, closed in by jackal netting and a weatherproof sleeping kennel inside the area is all you need.) This is where you are going to be keeping this ten-year investment.

2.       Your pup needs attention and socializing. Someone (preferably it’s handler) has to spend a few minutes with the pup each day. Just let it run around the garden, without the other dog/dogs, for a while, where you can have contact with it. Handle it so that it can get used to your smell and touch. 20 to 30min will be enough time at first. It must not be scared of you. Your children can play with the pup for short periods. The short period is so important. Children can easily destroy a potentially good working dog by playing with it for long periods. The reason I say this is because the pup bonds with the child, who exerts no discipline. They just play all the time. When you come along and tell the dog to do something, (exert discipline) it will want to go back to the child (exerts no discipline) and ignore you. And it does not help to get angry with the child or the pup. It is your fault if that happens.

3.       Whenever the pup is not in someone’s company, shut it up in the kennel. Remember, this is NOT a long-term prison for the pup; it is its safe home.

4.       As you would bond with your child to get to understand he/she and he/she to understand you, so you need to bond with your pup. It is just an animal, but an exceptionally intelligent animal with emotions. Treat it with that in mind. The bonding is done in small steps e.g. let it run around with you when you are in the garden. Take it for short walks or rides in the FRONT of the bakkie so that it does not fall out the back and get run over. NEVER TAKE THE PUP TO WHERE SHEEP ARE BEING WORKED. You can take the pup in the bakkie, when you drive through the sheep while inspecting them and if the pup shows interest, great, leave it at that. It must just not have contact with the stock at this stage. As mentioned before, keep it away from fowls and ‘hansies’ and calves that live near the yard.

5.       Start passive training with your pup from the time you get it. By this I mean; when the pup come to you, say, ‘come here’ followed by its name. When it gets to you and sits, say ‘sit’ as it sits. Say ‘no’ in a stern voice when it does something wrong and praise it when it does something right. It is critically important to mention how much correct timing, will help you with your training. Remember, the pup does not know what your right and wrong is. You have to teach it, just as you have to do with a child.

6.       As the pup gets older, it’s reaction will be not to come to you when you call it. At this stage in its’ life, you usually call the pup to put it in the kennel, which it objects to. DO NOT GET ANGRY. It is just testing you and unfortunately it often tests you when you are in a hurry. To help solve this problem, tie a 6m light braided cord (not ‘baaltou’ or ski rope) to the pups collar so that it can drag it around when it is out of the kennel but please, do NOT leave the cord around the pups’ neck while there is no one in attendance. (The cord could get caught up on something in the yard and the pup could strangle itself.) The cord gives you a chance to catch the pup at a distance. Never haul the pup in on the rope. Give quick jerks as you call the pups name and then release the tension of the rope to give the pup time to think and respond. Repeat the action until the pup comes to you. You will more than likely find, that the first time you try this, the pup will fight the rope and could even spin around and bite at the rope. Just be patient for a few moments and keep trying your quick jerk and release actions, even while it is having its tantrum.. Usually after a few minutes the pup realises it is  a much better option to come to you than to fight. Praise it when it reaches you. Please put your temper in your back pocket while you are doing this and force yourself to have just a few minutes of patience. It is worth it. REMEMBER; THE LIGHT CORD YOU HAVE ON THE COLLAR IS NEVER THERE TO ABUSE THE PUP, IT IS THERE TO HELP YOU TRAIN YOU PUP.

7.       Every pup is different, just like people. This is so important to remember. You get soft natured pups, stubborn ones, friendly ones, shy ones, those that are easy to train, and those that will be a challenge and so on. Take note of your pup temperament and how it reacts to you, others, things that go on in the yard etc. If you have had a working sheepdog before or do have one already, the chances are the new pup will not be the same as the other dog. Work it accordingly.

8.       If you have taken the effort to raise your pup well, by the time the pup is six months old, the introduction to the sheep should be so much easier for you. If you are unsure of taking you pup to the sheep for the first time, most trainers will be willing, even at a small fee, to help you get your dog started. If you decide to send your pup to be trained, it will of course make the job of a sheepdog trainer so much easier too.

The introduction to sheep:    

This, I would say, is the second most important time in your dogs working life. 

I must mention something at this point. If you do have an older dog that works and this is your second pup, do not to use the older dog to ‘teach’ the pup how to work. We, as trainers, sometimes use our older dogs to get the pup interested in chasing the sheep or to hold the sheep while introducing the pup. You must realize, that our experienced dogs are old hands at the job and do exactly what we ask them to do. They do not interfere with the pup. As soon as we have achieved our goal by using the older dog, we take it away, otherwise the pup learns to ‘follow’ the old dog and not actually work the sheep itself.

Introducing pups to sheep, is an article of its own. There are people you can approach for help with this important aspect in the life of your dog, or you can obtain a training book, DVD or video from the SA Sheepdog Association’s office if you wish to go it alone.

Value of sheepdogs

If the basics are done correctly, as with most things in life, you can have a dog that will be worth its weight in gold. Believe me, I have been working with them for the past 30 years. I never go to the sheep without a dog in case I have to count or catch one, cut a few off, move the flock, or collect that one that has got through the fence. I can separate two flocks that have got mixed up out there in the field without bringing them to the kraal. I take my rams out of the ewes in the field with the help of my dogs. And the best of all, my dogs are always willing, friendly and are totally reliable workers. When I walk out of the house, my dog wants to go and work. They have no interest in holidays, strikes, wages and such things. They do not care if it is raining or if the sun is shining. All they wish to do is work and all they need in return is a bowl of quality dog food at the end of each day.

There is not a sheep farm in the UK, New Zealand or Australia without dogs. Their small stock industries would come to a halt were it not for the working sheepdog and this is no exaggeration.